Autumn is my favourite season. With the abundant summer rain we've had, I'm looking forward to finding some time to hunt for wild mushrooms in the mountains. Some fruit shops already have saffron milk caps for sale and there should be slippery jacks a little further into the season.
A word of warning. If you've never been mushroom hunting before it's important to go with someone experienced in telling the difference between an edible variety and one that is toxic. With all the food safaris and tours popping up, I'm surprised the mushroom trail hasn't been exploited more.
Meanwhile, there is an ever-increasing range of cultivated varieties such as oyster, chestnut, shimeji, king brown and the under-used wood-ear fungus. This jet-black and sometimes deep-brown variety can be used to add texture to a mixture of cooked mushrooms or as a finely shredded addition to the mushroom sauce recipe below. Wood-ears are ideal for slow braises because they don't lose their shape and won't disintegrate.
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